The Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley, Japanese Alps
- Nimrod
- Aug 14
- 4 min read
November 2024 [To All Posts in Japan]
Area: Kiso Valley, Japan
Route: Walk between the villages of Magome and Tsumago
Difficulty: Easy, family-friendly
Duration: 3–4 hours
Length: ~8 km || Best seasons: Autumn/Spring
Focus: Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley
Content
The Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley (木曽路, Kisoji) Intro
I think we need to clear things up a bit — there’s a tangle of trails, villages, and valleys here.
So, let’s start from the bottom and work our way up, okay? This post is about a day trip covering a short section of the Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley area. Maybe I’m exaggerating by calling it a “day” — the actual walk only takes a few hours — but once you add getting there and heading back, well… let’s just call it a day.
Here’s a handy orientation map of the Nakasendo Trail in the Kiso Valley:
Light blue: Our hotel
Orange: Parking in Magome
Green: Bus stop in Tsumago
The 8-kilometer walking route stretches between the parking lot in Magome and the village of Tsumago.
We hiked the Magome–Tsumago Trail, a charming route between the villages of Magome and Tsumago in the Kiso Valley, Nagano Prefecture, nestled in Japan’s Central Alps.
This trail is part of a longer historic trade route called the Kisoji, which stretches about 70 km. During the Edo period, the Kisoji merged with the Nakasendo — a 540 km route connecting Edo (modern-day Tokyo) with Kyoto.
More Trips In Japan
Along the trail, post towns were established to provide lodging, food, and services for travelers making their way along these historic routes.
You can read more about the Kiso Valley in Japan guide, and about the Nakasendo here.
The trail can be started from either village, but the easier direction (with fewer uphill stretches) is from Magome to Tsumago.
Where We Stayed and Who This Trip is For
We stayed at a lovely hotel called Enakyo Onsen Hotel Yuzoriha, right on the banks of the wide Kiso River. This stretch of the river was formed by a dam, creating a beautiful lake-like view — and yes, you can even take a boat ride here!
Visiting the Kiso Valley works best if you can spend one or two nights in the area, either as part of a longer trip through the Japanese Alps or as a stopover nearby. We came here from Kamikochi by car and continued on to Kyoto afterward — the final leg of our Alps adventure.
Here are a few shots I took from our hotel room balcony:
Getting to Magome
We arrived in Magome by car, parking in the village’s upper parking lot. You can also get here by bus from Nakatsugawa Station (for those coming to the area by train).
The trail to Tsumago starts right from here. We arrived on a rainy day, so wandering around the village before the hike was a little less enjoyable.
Still, we took a short stroll. The main street is well-kept and quite tourist-oriented, with beautifully preserved traditional houses. There’s also a small museum dedicated to the local author Shimazaki Toson, whose father once ran the village’s main inn.
Both Magome and Tsumago have visitor information centers. You don’t need a map to walk the trail — the route is very clear and well-marked in true Japanese fashion, complete with rest areas, water, and toilets.
The Walk and the Trail
As mentioned, the hike runs between the villages of Magome and Tsumago, with the easier direction starting in Magome. From here, you’ll climb about 2 kilometers before descending roughly 6 kilometers to Tsumago.
The total distance is about 8 kilometers. The walk is easy, well-maintained, and suitable for families.
Most of the route is paved or stone-paved, winding through forests, streams, and waterfalls, with a few road crossings along the way. You’ll also pass through additional small villages with cultivated fields and traditional houses, offering a glimpse into rural life in this region
There’s even a charming little “bamboo forest” along the trail...
About halfway along the route, you’ll come across a refreshment stop in a traditional house, where tea is served.
Spiders here seem to feel quite safe—Japan appears to allow nature to coexist alongside people without disturbing the harmony. I noticed far more intact spiderwebs in Japan than in many other countries.
The Village of Tsumago
The village of Tsumago feels particularly well-preserved and maintained. It offers more dining options than Magome, along with the expected souvenir shops, as well as stores selling utensils, clothing, and more.
How to Return to Magome
If you started your hike in Magome and left your car there, you can return by bus. Tickets can be purchased at the Tsumago information center, or you can pay the driver directly (600 yen) when you get off.
Note: The number of daily buses is limited, so plan accordingly.
Here’s the bus timetable.
If you walked in the opposite direction, you can return to Tsumago using the same bus.
The Nakasendo Trail (中山道)
Our day trip covers a short section of the Nakasendo Trail, a historic route linking Kyoto and Tokyo that served, at different times, as one of the two main arteries between these cities.
The trail stretches about 540 km and passes through 69 towns and villages, spaced roughly 10 km apart.
In the Kiso Valley, there are several options to extend your walk along the Nakasendo into a multi-day trek.
The valley has 11 villages that can be visited as part of the route.
You can find inspiration for trips in the area on this site, another example for multi-day hikes in this site, and more information about the trail here.
Magome–Tsumago trail navigation file
Attached is the Magome–Tsumago walking route in GPX format