Kanazawa, Japan
- Nimrod
- 5 hours ago
- 6 min read
October 2024 [To all posts in Japan]
Content
Geisha and Tea House District (Higashi Chaya)
Covered Market (Omicho Market)
Samurai District (Nagamachi)
Kanazawa, Japan Introduction (金沢)
We reached Kanazawa after a long travel day that started in Yamagata. First, a train to Omiya (near Tokyo), then another train to Kanazawa—about five hours in total. If you’re coming from Tokyo, it’s just 2.5 hours on the shinkansen. We stayed here for two full days and one evening, which was definitely enough.
We checked in at an amazing hotel, just 200 meters from the edge of the famous Omicho Market. What a treat—the hotel and room were fantastic! The Sanraku Hotel Kanazawa
After settling in, we headed out to explore Higashi Chaya District, Kanazawa’s old traditional arts and culture quarter, famous for geishas and historic teahouses.
Honestly, it was a bit disappointing at first—the streets were empty and the atmosphere was pretty dark. (Don’t worry, everything looked completely different the next day!)
Kanazawa is a relatively large city with about 450k residents. Like Kyoto, Kanazawa was spared from American bombing during World War II, so its historic districts from the Edo period—like the Samurai district and the old arts and culture quarters—are beautifully preserved.
Kenrokuen Garden is ranked among the three most beautiful gardens in all of Japan (and in my opinion, it’s the most stunning of all the ones I’ve visited—even though I haven’t seen the other two).
For a full list of attractions in Kanazawa, check out the Japan Guide.
More Trips in Japan
Geisha and Teahouse District (Higashi Chaya)
The person you see in these photos isn’t a geisha or a maiko :) When I came here early in the morning to beat the tourist crowds and capture some empty street shots, I met this American woman who moved to Japan and has been living here for a while.
Since she was the only one on the street, she ended up being the perfect subject for my morning photos.
And here’s a bride… There are lots of them around! At first, it’s really exciting to see a wedding couple here, usually followed by a whole team of photographers, makeup artists, and dressers who rush after them, setting up every shot—alongside dozens of tourists snapping pictures as if they’re part of the family.
Here’s the happy couple again—this time with a beautiful, elegant parasol, just as it should be. This street is really popular for wedding photos, much like the Gion district in Kyoto and other historic quarters in Japanese cities.
The city’s arts and culture districts were usually located on the outskirts, and this area included teahouses and geisha performances. Here you’ll find several teahouses open to the public, like Shima Teahouse, which is now a small museum, or Kaikaro Teahouse, where you can enjoy tea—with or without gold leaf. You can even book tickets for an authentic geisha performance on their official website (about 220$ per person).
We also went up to one of the teahouses/cafes here to drink and people-watch from the second floor. Dorit ordered matcha, and I had black sesame coffee with sweet bean treats—it was delicious.
If you’re interested in gold leaf, you can visit a small museum that shows the production process, then enjoy gold leaf-covered ice cream at places like Hakuichi Higashiyama.
Just to note, Kanazawa has three arts and culture districts: in addition to Higashi Chaya, there’s Nishi Chaya and Kazuemachi.
A short walk from Higashi Chaya flows the Asano River, with a charming promenade perfect for walking or jogging—you’ll see it below.
Kanazawa is located on the coast of the Sea of Japan, so if you’re visiting in the summer or just love the beach, you can easily enjoy the seaside. The beaches are a bit far from the historic city center, but you can reach them by bus in about 40 minutes. For example, you can visit the water park at Kenmin Seaside Park, right on the beach.
Fresh Food Market (Omicho Market)
Omicho Market is Kanazawa’s biggest fresh food market, thriving here since the Edo era. When we arrived in the city in the evening and walked through it on our way to the hotel, it was hard to imagine that this spotless place buzzes with life during the day.
The sparkling cleanliness at the end of a workday, and only the faint trace of fish in the air, were the subtle hints that a lively market had just wound down.
At lunchtime you can find steaming bowls of ramen, fresh fish dishes, sushi, and sashimi – all as fresh as can be. The market spreads across several streets, where vendors also sell fruits, vegetables, and dried goods.
By evening the stalls are closed, but a few small restaurants stay open, offering seafood delicacies such as the beloved Kaisen-don – a bowl of rice topped with generous slices of sashimi.
We had a bowl of ramen at the market, and it was absolutely delicious. Another recommended spot nearby is a cozy little bistro called Linnas, located inside a small hotel just a short walk from Omicho Market.
Kenrokuen Garden
This stunning garden is considered one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan – and to me, it’s the most beautiful of them all (though, to be fair, I haven’t seen the other two yet 🙂). With its ancient trees, gentle waterfalls, charming little ponds, and everything covered in a lush carpet of green moss.
Kenrokuen opened to the public in 1871, after centuries as part of the Maeda family’s private estate, once adjoining Kanazawa Castle’s grounds for nearly two hundred years.
The design follows a classical Chinese gardening principle that says an ideal garden should bring together six key elements: a sense of spaciousness and freedom, secluded corners for tranquility, man‑made structures like bridges and statues, historic features such as teahouses and stone lanterns, the flow of water in ponds, fountains, and streams, and finally, a sweeping panoramic view.
The trees and plants here receive meticulous, almost tender care, and the garden transforms its look with every season. The most impressive times to visit are late winter, when the plum trees begin to blossom; spring, when the cherry trees burst into bloom; and autumn, when the Maple and Ginkgo leaves turn brilliant shades of red and yellow.
We arrived a little early in the season (mid‑October), so most of the garden was still lush and green. Even so, for anyone who loves Japanese gardens – or gardens in general – this is truly a “must‑see” spot.
The dedicated gardeners here work tirelessly, carefully tending and cleaning the grounds without pause…
Kanazawa Castle
Kanazawa Castle sits right next to Kenrokuen Garden, which was once part of its grounds. Built in the late 15th century, it served as the stronghold of the powerful Maeda clan until the beginning of the Meiji era (1868). The castle has burned down several times over the centuries, and in recent decades major restoration works have been carried out to rebuild its turrets, storehouses, and other structures.
The castle was built as part of a vast garden with wide lawns, trees, water canals, and several impressive gates. The main entrance, Ishikawa-mon Gate, is located right next to Kenrokuen Garden.
Inside the castle you can (for a small fee) visit one of the reconstructed turrets and a large, impressive storehouse. And if you’re in need of a break, make sure to stop at Kanazawaya Coffee, a cozy cafe right at the entrance to the castle park.
The 21st Century Museum
We headed over to the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. Some of the exhibition halls were closed, so we checked out a few displays—some fascinating, others less so—and of course, the famous “swimming pool” installation. This spot is mainly for modern art lovers and fans of quirky installations.
Tip: If you want the full experience of actually “going inside” the famous pool installation, be prepared for an extra fee and a bit of waiting time.
Samurai District (Nagamachi)
No, the samurai didn’t ride bicycles—only horses, as far as I know—but there are bikes in the district, and the background still looks quite authentic.
Kanazawa is also known as the “Samurai City,” named after the Nagamachi Samurai district that survived from the Edo period with its mud walls, traditional houses, and water canals, as well as the preservation of samurai culture, architecture, and values.
We visited a Samurai house (Nomura-ke), which was fascinating. It featured a beautiful inner garden, rooms, tools, and furniture from the era when a wealthy Samurai family lived here.
In the Samurai district, you can visit art galleries, browse porcelain shops, and admire Kanazawa’s famous gold leaf craftsmanship.
More photos from around the city
From Kanazawa, we continued on a week-long road trip through the Japanese Alps with a rental car from the city.
See the post on the Hakuba area.
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