Hakone, Japan
- Nimrod
- Aug 19
- 7 min read
November 2024 [To All Posts in Japan]
Content
Hakone Japan Introduction 箱根町
Hakone was our last destination before returning to Tokyo for the final week of our trip, after spending a month and a half in Japan.
Although we had almost two days of rain in Hakone, I can confidently say it’s a wonderful area to visit. Of course, what works for one traveler may not suit another, so I’ll soon share who I think Hakone is best for.
We arrived here after a long journey from Kurashiki, with four train transfers through Nagoya and Odawara—and even losing a phone on one of the trains along the way (don’t worry, it was safely waiting for me at the lost and found in Tokyo).
Hakone is part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, which also includes the Izu Islands, Mount Fuji, and the surrounding Five Lakes.
While it’s possible to visit on a day trip from Tokyo, staying longer allows you to enjoy art museums, relaxing in natural onsens, scenic viewpoints, and pleasant walks—depending on the weather.
Who is Hakone suitable for
In short – for nature lovers, for those who enjoy onsen hot springs, ryokan stays, and art. And of course, for anyone who wants to admire beautiful views of Mount Fuji.
Hakone is also perfect if you need a break from Japan’s big cities and long for fresh air and open landscapes. Families traveling with kids will also enjoy it – the scenic trains, ropeways, and lake cruises are a real treat for children.
You can visit Hakone on a day trip from Tokyo, with travel times ranging from about one to two hours by the various trains that reach the area. Alternatively, as we did, you can arrive from elsewhere without a car. It’s also very convenient for travelers exploring the region by car.
More Trips in Japan
Below is a car of Japan’s first mountain railway, the Hakone Tozan Railway, which runs between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora. In summer, starting in June, natural hydrangea bushes bloom along the tracks and are even illuminated at night, creating a magical scenic ride.
Hakone Travel Tips
You can stay in various towns within the larger Hakone area. We stayed in Yumoto, not far from Hakone-Yumoto Station, where you can also purchase the Hakone Free Pass, giving unlimited rides on local buses, trains, ropeways, and lake cruises.
If you arrive by car, you can stay wherever you like and easily explore the area. If arriving by train or bus, it’s best to stay in towns near a station like Yumoto or Miyanoshita. Yumoto worked perfectly as our base for day trips around Hakone.
You can purchase the Hakone Free Pass for two or three days. If coming from Tokyo, the pass also includes the train from Shinjuku Station, where you can buy the combined pass. Check your plans carefully and decide how many days you want to spend in the area to see if the pass suits your trip.
Given the number of sites and travel times between them, it’s important to plan your schedule and focus on what interests you most. In autumn and winter, for example, the sun sets around 5 PM, so daylight is limited.
If you enjoy ryokan stays or onsens, Hakone is the perfect destination—ideally with a car.
You can see a sample list of hotels here
Before booking a hotel, check access options, as some accommodations are reachable only by car.
The Hakone Open-Air Museum
Right after arriving, we left our bags at the hotel and headed to the Hakone Open-Air Museum – one of the area’s most unique attractions. Tickets can be purchased online (official site) or at the entrance. The museum is reached by the Hakone Tozan Railway, which zigzags up the mountain from Hakone-Yumoto Station – about a 30-minute ride.
It was raining and less pleasant to walk around, but we went in and were not disappointed. The museum features dozens of outdoor sculptures and installations, as well as two buildings—one entirely dedicated to Picasso, showcasing his ceramics, sculptures, and amazing drawings that we had never seen before.
In another building, more delightful works by rotating artists are on display, and the garden with its autumn foliage provides a perfect backdrop despite the weather. Here you’ll also find an 18-meter-high tower with internal spiral stairs (Symphonic Sculpture), created by the French glass artist Gabriel Loire.
There’s also a foot bath near the Picasso Pavilion and the sculpture by Jean Arp right next to it — bring a small towel with you, it’ll be fun…
Here you can see another collection of artworks around the museum grounds, including pieces by Ryoli Gojo and Niki de Saint Phalle — whose works are also displayed on Naoshima Art Island (see my post about the island).
We took the train back to our hotel and then headed out for a really tasty hamburger at Box Burger. The owner greeted us with an energy level you don’t usually encounter in Japan. The place is small and charming — and the burger was excellent (yes, yes, a hamburger in Japan 🙂).
Onsen in Hakone
The next day we decided it was time to relax, so we searched for an open-air onsen with pools and a nice view. We found the lovely Tenzan Onsen, just a short bus ride from the stop right in front of Hakone-Yumoto Station. Don’t worry — there’s an attendant there who will direct you to the right bus line. (Here’s a full list of Hakone onsens according to the Japan guide.)
The onsen is built in a traditional Japanese style and features several hot outdoor pools as well as a cold-water pool. After soaking, you can sit back on wooden chairs and simply gaze at the inner garden and the forest surrounding the complex.
It took me a while to connect with the onsen culture, but by the time I arrived here I was already “well-cooked” (and not just because the water is 42°C 😊). That’s when you really start to enjoy it — honestly, it’s fun and so relaxing. I never thought I’d be able to sit in the cold-water pool as if it were warm, but I actually managed!
There are quite a few wonderful onsens in the area… I’d suggest that true fans look for the ones that suit them best and just go with the flow — whether it’s the hot pools or the refreshing cold ones — whatever feels right for your soul.
Lake Ashi (芦ノ湖, Ashinoko)
In the afternoon, after enjoying the onsen, we took a bus toward Lake Ashi. The ride takes about 35 minutes to reach the town of Motohakone, located on the eastern side of the lake and encompassing much of the area around Lake Ashi.
Since we didn’t have much time before sunset, we simply strolled near the pier where boats depart for cruises on the lake — including the famous “pirate ship” featured at the beginning of this post.
With just a short walk, you can reach Onshi-Hakone Park. The park is filled with greenery, cedar and other trees (including cherry blossoms). It also features a former summer retreat of the Imperial family.
From the park, there’s also a beautiful lookout point with views over Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji.
With a short walk, you can reach Onshi-Hakone Park. Inside the park you’ll find lush vegetation, cedar trees, and others (including cherry blossoms). The grounds also include a former holiday retreat of the Imperial family.
There’s also a lovely viewpoint in the park overlooking Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji.
You can also walk to the torii gate standing in the waters of the lake, and from there continue about 250 meters to Hakone Shrine (Shinto).
What else to do in Hakone
Ropeways
There are two ropeway lines in Hakone (especially useful if you’ve purchased the Hakone Free Pass).
One runs from Hakone-en Station, on the shores of Lake Ashi, up to the Komagatake Ropeway Top Station, near Hakone Mototsumiya Shrine. From here you get stunning panoramic views of the region, including of course Mount Fuji.
Another ropeway starts at Togendai Station (north of Lake Ashi) and goes up to Sounzan Station, passing through Ubako Station and the famous Owakudani Station.
At Sounzan Station, you can transfer to a cable car that goes down to Gora Station.
Both ropeway lines along Lake Ashi are accessible by boat, with departures from the piers at Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi (both on the eastern shore of the lake).
Boat Cruise
You can take a cruise on Lake Ashi from two piers: Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi, sailing toward Togendai at the northern end of the lake (near the ropeway station). Cruises operate in both directions. There’s even a “real” pirate ship – a big hit with kids.
Bubbling Walk on Foot
It’s worth getting off at Owakudani Ropeway Station and exploring the volcanic area along the Kamiyama Mountain Climbing Course. There’s a short walking trail from the station into the volcanic zone, with several steam vents and bubbling pools. The whole walk takes about 30 minutes. Advance registration is required, with a fee of 800 yen.
There are also longer hiking options in the area, but at the moment some trails are closed (2024) due to volcanic activity. More details are available here.
Completing the Full Circle with All Modes of Transport
If you’ve purchased the combined Hakone Pass, you can actually tour the whole region by making a loop, clockwise or counterclockwise, using all available modes of transport.
If you’re staying in Yumoto, start counterclockwise by taking the Hakone Tozan Railway toward Gora. From there continue with the funicular and ropeways down to the lake, take a cruise to the eastern shore, and then return by bus back to Yumoto.
Other Onsens in Hakone
An onsen that’s more like a hot spring water park: Hakone Kowakien Yunessun
For a full list of onsens, see the Japan Guide.
More Museums in Hakone
Pola Museum of Art – [museum website here]. Features collections and rotating exhibitions of both classical and contemporary art. The museum is located in an ancient beech forest, and its architecture is particularly striking.
Okada Museum of Art – [museum website here]. Includes a large, artistic footbath pool and collections of East Asian art.
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