Four Days in Yamagata Prefecture
- Nimrod
- Jul 22
- 10 min read
Updated: 2 days ago
October 2024 [To all posts in Japan]
Destination: Yamagata, Japan
Type: Road Trip Hub | Duration: 4 Days
Four days in Yamagata prefecture: Temples, Nature, Museums & Relaxing Onsens
Content
Four Days in Yamagata Prefecture - Introduction
When we arrived at Tokyo Station in the morning to catch the train to Yamagata, the sight was overwhelming—thousands of people flowing in and out of the station like a bustling ant colony. Compared to places like Spain or France, I suddenly understood how Japan rose to become the world’s second-largest economy (now third, after China). These tireless ‘ants’ move in perfect order, ready for another workday.
The Japan guide describes Yamagata Prefecture as: ״Known for its agricultural products—especially cherries, hot springs, rural charm, and natural beauty״
What initially drew me to this region during our Japan trip planning were the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan and the temples on them, symbolizing birth, death, and rebirth. Somehow, those symbols resonated with our own ‘rebirth’—leaving the world of work behind and searching for the next adventure.
Treks and Trips in Japan
We hopped on the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Yamagata—a ride of just over two hours, with the train speeding through plains and then slowing as the landscape turned mountainous.
In Yamagata, we checked into the Daiwa Roynet Hotel (the same chain we stayed at in Tokyo) and picked up our rental car from Toyota—all within walking distance of the station.
We spent four days in the area, with Yamagata City as our base. Along the way, I even discovered a few hidden gems in the city itself. Looking back, these days were among the highlights of our trip.
Our Yamagata Adventure – Day by Day
Day 1 (Arrival from Tokyo)
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Yamadera Temple
The name Yamadera (山寺) translates from Japanese as “Mountain Temple”.
We drove (yes, on the opposite side of the road) to Yamadera Temple, where there’s a complex of Buddhist temples founded over a thousand years ago.
The drive to the temple area takes only about 20 minutes from the city.
About 700 meters from Yamadera Station, you’ll find the Matsuo Bashō Museum, dedicated to the great 17th-century Japanese poet. The museum focuses on Bashō’s journey through northern Japan (though it’s all in Japanese).
At the entrance to the temple grounds, in the lower section, there are several temples—the most important being Konponchudo Hall, built from beech wood.
Legend has it that the fire burning inside has been alight since its founding in 860.
You’ll also see a statue of the poet Bashō with a poem he wrote about the area during his travels here.
Bashō is considered the father of haiku, the shortest form of poetry in the world—just 17 syllables.
A haiku is a minimal, distilled expression capturing a fleeting moment, a passing thought, an immediate feeling, or an intuitive inspiration from the present, all rooted in Zen Buddhism’s pursuit of simplicity and minimalism in every form of expression.
Here, while climbing up to the temple, he wrote the following haiku:
“Ah, the silence—
sinking into the rocks,
the voice of the cicada.”
We climbed about 1,000 steps to reach the upper part of the temple complex—it takes around half an hour. Just as we began, the rain started falling, so we hiked up with umbrellas in hand. The drizzle and patches of mist only added to the mountain’s mystical atmosphere.
For some Japanese visitors, especially the many seniors who come here, the climb is tough—they huff and puff, yet push on all the way to the top without a single complaint.
I asked my brother-in-law, who’s lived in Japan for years and is married to a Japanese woman, how he explains the contrast between today’s polite, humble Japanese and the fierce samurai and WWII warriors, even kamikaze pilots.
He told me that Japanese children are still raised with strict and uncompromising discipline, which might explain the determination you see here—even among elderly hikers who can barely walk, climbing these endless stairs with quiet perseverance.
The climb up the stairs is simply stunning, winding through a forest of towering cedar trees, alongside other trees, shrubs, statues, and impressive rock formations with carved inscriptions.
At the top, you’re rewarded with a beautiful view of the valley and surrounding mountains—especially from the Godaido Hall observation deck.
Opening Hours & Entrance Fee
08:00 – 16:00 Entrance: 300 yen
Getting There by Car
We drove from Yamagata (about 20 minutes) and parked in the village lot, or you can look for one of the additional parking areas nearby (300–500 yen).
By Public Transport
From Yamagata, take a train directly to Yamadera Station—it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the temple entrance. You can also reach it from Sendai by train (around 1 hour).
See the Japan Guide page linked here.
Mount Zao and Okama Crater
When I first saw photos of this stunning crater—Okama Crater—I knew I had to see it in person. Mount Zao is a volcanic mountain range dotted with hot springs and ski resorts, straddling the border between Yamagata and Miyagi prefectures.
We drove from Yamagata toward Mount Zao, eager to check out the crater and explore the area around it. The drive takes about an hour (some roads are quite narrow, and the locals drive really slowly…).
The scenic road leading up the mountain range is called Zao Echo Line, and the higher we climbed, the more intense the autumn colors became.
We paid a small toll here and soon arrived at a large parking lot. From there, it’s just a short walk—only a few hundred meters—to the main viewpoint overlooking the crater.
There are also several trails around the mountain that offer different angles and perspectives of this spectacular site.
In Japanese, 御釜 (Okama) means “cooking pot,” and once you see it, you’ll understand why—it really does look like one!
After taking in the crater, we also hiked up to a small, charming Shinto shrine (Kattamine Shrine) nearby. The views from up there are breathtaking, and the partly cloudy day, with peaks occasionally hidden by drifting clouds, made the scene even more magical.
Along the Echo Line road, the autumn colors are simply spectacular. The Japanese maples turn fiery shades of red, painting the mountainsides with stunning, vibrant patches that look almost unreal.
Several cable cars operate here, perfect if you’re coming from the town of Zao Onsen or planning a hike in the area. You can find more details in the Japan guide.
And yes—there’s even a restaurant on-site. The Japanese make sure no one goes hungry!
Getting there by car:
We drove from Yamagata to the parking lot closest to the Okama Crater. From there, it’s just a short walk to the crater viewpoint.
By public transport:
See the Japan guide page for full details.
Zao Onsen
Zao Onsen is a charming hot spring and ski town, dotted with ryokans and public baths. In winter, after a day on the slopes, soaking in one of the local onsen is simply the way to unwind (more ski tips are in the Japan guide).
For me, the highlight was the Zao Onsen Dairotenburo, an outdoor hot spring right by a flowing river—absolutely magical! Imagine sitting in a natural pool, with 42°C mineral-rich waters in a dreamy bluish hue, blending perfectly with nature. You park, step into the facility, strip down (yes, fully!), and just surrender to the experience. If you’re shy, you can bring a small towel (or buy one there)—the baths are gender-separated.
After soaking, I grabbed a cold drink from one of the vending machines by the exit.
This was my first-ever onsen experience, and it was nothing short of profound. All masks come off, and it’s just you and the soothing heat of nature.
Sharing a photo here—not mine, since photography is prohibited in onsens!
More details:
Opening hours: 09:30 – 16:30 (on certain dates, there’s also night bathing).
Entrance fee: 1,000 yen per person.Closed in winter (from late November to March).
Getting there by car:
After visiting the Okama Crater, we drove directly to the onsen parking lot.
The Three Sacred Mountains and Temples (Dewa Sanzan)
We visited two of the three sacred mountains (no way to complete all three in just one day!)—each crowned with a temple, together known as Dewa Sanzan.
This area, and these mountains in particular, are the spiritual heart of Shugendō, a unique blend of Shinto and Buddhism that reveres the mountains. Its practices include meditation, ascetic training, fasting, fire-walking, and pilgrimages.
Some extreme monks even transformed themselves into mummies while still alive, undergoing a 10-year process of fasting and preservation! You can see them at Dainichibo Temple and Churenji Temple (more on this fascinating tradition here).
The first mountain: Haguro-san (Birth)
The most beautiful and accessible of the three, this sacred mountain features a path of 2,446 stone steps over 1.7 km, shaded by towering ancient cedar trees. The temple here is open year-round. You can also drive or take a bus to the top—but honestly, the journey up the steps is half the magic.
Near the entrance, a charming waterfall and wooden bridge welcome you, leading to a series of shrines and then the stunning five-story pagoda, originally built in 937, standing gracefully among the cedars.
About halfway up, there’s a little teahouse—the perfect spot for a rest and a snack. Along the trail, 33 stone-carved statues await; finding them all is said to bring good fortune in every aspect of life.
The roof of this Shinto shrine is the thickest in all of Japan—an impressive two meters of tightly packed thatch.
Getting there by car
We drove from Yamagata, about an hour and a half (roughly 95 km). You can park in the lot near the entrance here.
By public transport
Check the detailed page in the Japan guide.
The second mountain: Yudono-san (rebirth)
We reached the mountain after a 45-minute drive from Haguro-san. At the entrance, there’s a small toll road fee (note: the site closes at 16:30). A massive and impressive torii gate greets visitors.
From the gate, you can either take a shuttle up to the shrine or walk about a kilometer along the road. To be honest, it’s not a single shrine but rather a collection of buildings and a purification pool. Those who wish to participate are asked to remove their shoes and perform a short prayer ritual.
The day was quite cloudy, and we arrived in the late afternoon (in autumn, it gets dark around 5 PM). But when a few rays of sunlight managed to break through the clouds, the view was absolutely breathtaking...
This is where the actual “shrine” is, and those who wish can take part in a ritual after removing their shoes and paying a fee… We decided to skip it—by then, we already felt fully immersed in the spirit of the place, and that was enough for us.
Getting there by car
We drove from Haguro-san—about 45 minutes. You reach the entrance to the short toll road [location here] and continue to the parking lot (note: access closes at 16:30).
By public transport
See details in the Japan guide.
The third mountain: Gas-san (Death)
We didn’t manage to visit this one, how symbolic :) (no way to cover all three in a single day). It involves a 5 km hike each way and is the tallest of the three peaks. You can also descend on foot toward Mount Yudono-san. More info is in the Japan guide.
I did feel a twinge of regret—we came to experience “birth, death, and rebirth,” yet we didn’t complete the full circle.
But a few days later, I made peace with this imperfect loop :)
For the curious:
More about the bizarre phenomenon of mummified monks here.
The Hot Spring Town of Ginzan Onsen
We then drove to the enchanting Ginzan Onsen (“Silver Mountain Hot Spring”), less than an hour from Yamagata.
Note: There are new entry regulations due to visitor congestion.
The town once grew around a silver mine but is now famous as one of Japan’s prettiest onsen towns. The pedestrian street lined with ryokans, restaurants, and a small public onsen (which we tried!) was simply a delight.
You can dip your feet in the small hot spring pools along the street (and grab some delicious tofu to enjoy while sitting at a table with your feet soaking in the warm water).
If you want to treat yourself, I highly recommend spending a night here in one of the charming ryokans.
There’s plenty of delicious food here—and the ice cream is amazing too! A little further up the river, you’ll find a lovely waterfall and some charming bridges.
A short walk takes you to a cave that was once part of a silver mine dating back to the Edo period. At first, a light drizzle added to the atmosphere, but soon it stopped and even a bit of sunshine peeked through. They say the street looks magical at night when lit by gas lamps, and in the snow, it’s simply breathtaking.
In the photo below on the right, you can spot a ryokan renovated by architect Kuma Kengo—modern yet perfectly preserving traditional design elements.
How to get there by car
You can park in one of the lots near the pedestrian street, for example here (note the new restrictions—you might need to park further away and use a shuttle).
By public transport
See the Japan Guide page for detailed directions.
Japan Kokeshi Museum
After visiting the town, we drove to the Japan Kokeshi Museum. Dorit (my wife) is absolutely crazy about these dolls and has already collected quite a few of them.
The museum is charming, though a bit old-fashioned. The main highlight—beyond the impressive doll collection—is the artisan working in an open studio, crafting Kokeshi dolls right before your eyes. You can even sign up to paint or create your own doll. There’s also a video showcasing the traditional techniques.
And of course… there’s also a lovely little shop with an impressive selection of Kokeshi dolls, tableware, and plenty of other charming finds.
There’s even another Kokeshi museum nearby called the Iwashita Kokeshi Museum.
Getting there by car:
You can park right here at the museum’s lot.
By public transport:
Check the Japan guide page (listed under Naruko Gorge).
Naruko Gorge
Our hike through the gorge was only partial, as parts of the trail are still closed due to earthquake damage. Still, we managed to enjoy a relatively short but beautiful walk through the forest between Ofukazawa Bridge and Narukokyo Resthouse.
We’re here in autumn, right in the middle of the foliage season (though the peak will arrive in about 10 days). This area is considered one of the best spots to enjoy Japan’s autumn colors, usually from late October. This year, though, the season is running a bit late…
At the Narukokyo Resthouse you’ll find food, drinks, and a lovely viewpoint overlooking the bridge.
I’m sharing here a map of the area from the Japan Guide to help you get oriented.
How to get there by car
The parking lot for the Narukokyo Resthouse is here.
By public transport
See the page in the Japan Guide.
Yamagata City
As I mentioned, Yamagata was our base for exploring the area with a rental car from Toyota.
The city itself isn’t very touristy and doesn’t offer a huge number of attractions, but there are a few interesting spots to check out if you’re already here.
Gotenzeki Street is lined with charming patisseries, fashion boutiques, gourmet meat shops, cozy cafés, and picturesque water canals.
Nanokamachi Street, with its unique houses dating back to the Edo Period.
Kajo Park and Yamagata Castle... enjoy!
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