Seville Travel Guide – Things to Do in the Capital of Andalusia
- Oct 2, 2024
- 15 min read
Updated: Apr 8
Explore Seville’s historic landmarks, vibrant neighborhoods, and flamenco culture
June-July 2024 [To all the posts in Spain]
Seville Travel Guide
Why visit Seville and what is this symbol NO8DO?
Planning a trip to Seville, Spain? This travel guide covers the best things to do, neighborhoods to explore, photography spots, and tips for visiting one of Andalusia’s most vibrant cities.
Seville is the capital of Andalusia, known for its historic architecture, flamenco culture, and lively atmosphere along the Guadalquivir River.
They say Seville is the queen of Andalusia (in fact, it’s the capital of the region). For me, if I had to choose just one city in Andalusia from the array of wonderful cities here, I would choose Seville without hesitation.
Of course, Granada is charming with its Alhambra, and Córdoba deserves credit too, but Seville has that special something—like someone who is said to have charisma (a gift of grace). That's how Seville is. We stayed here for more than a week, so I probably had time to fall in love.
By the way, you might be asking what this NO8DO symbol is, which appears on the city's flag and in every official place. The common explanation is that it symbolizes the loyalty of the city's residents to King Alfonso. The "8" is a skein of yarn (in Spanish, Madeja), and "NO me ha dejaDO" translates to "She has not left me״.
Best time to visit Seville
Spring (March-May) and fall (September-October) offer Seville's best weather—warm days around 20-28°C (68-82°F) perfect for exploring Alcázar and historic city streets without summer's extreme heat. Avoid July-August (over 40°C/104°F); visit then only for budget deals during low season.
Where to Stay in Seville
During our visits to Seville, we stayed in two apartments in different areas of the city.
On our first stay, we rented an apartment on Goyeneta 17 Street in the old city center, not far from Las Setas de Sevilla.This is an excellent location, within walking distance of many attractions.
For our second stay, we sought a more "local" and quiet neighborhood, so we rented an apartment in San Gil here.It's within walking distance of Feria market, Alameda bars, cafés, and restaurants.
Any place in the historic city (Casco Antiguo) is great.
Top Things to Do in Seville
Seville is part of our journey through Andalusia, which began in Granada, included hikes in the Sierra Nevada with a short trip to Lagos in Portugal, and from there to Seville, Córdoba, Málaga, and Almería.
We arrived to Seville Spain after about a three-hour drive from Lagos Portugal. We settled into an apartment on Goyeneta 17 Street in the historic city (the apartment is in a new complex in a great location).
We didn't feel the need to check off every must-see tourist site, but rather to go with the flow and visit places that suited us. We had time to just wander around, despite the intense heat that starts in the summer here before noon and lasts until nightfall around 10 p.m.
Everyone probably has their own version of Seville, I suppose. Just immerse yourself in the Spanish atmosphere, the laid-back vibe, and the literal and figurative southern warmth, and enjoy...
More Trips In Spain
Seville grand cathedral (Santa María)
We set out on our first tour of the city in the area of the grand cathedral
(Santa María- the largest Roman Catholic cathedral in the world) on Av. de la Constitución.
Well, it’s truly impressive, much more so from the inside in my opinion, but you know, cathedrals…
Right next to the cathedral stands La Giralda, the iconic bell tower of Seville Cathedral. Originally a 12th-century Almohad minaret, it offers ramp access and panoramic city views see also here: travelchoreography
Triana neighborhood
We heard about the Triana neighborhood, which is on the other side of the river. So, we crossed the Puente de Isabel II (Triana Bridge) and walked along the river to explore the neighborhood.
By the way, this is what the neighborhood looked like about two hundred years ago in a painting we saw at the city's Museum of Fine Arts.
Triana Bridge (Puente de Isabel II)
And here is the Triana Bridge (Puente de Isabel II), which was completed in 1852 and is now Seville’s most beautiful bridge. The Alamillo Bridge (Puente del Alamillo) gives it some competition, but it’s much younger and located in the northern part of the city, so not everyone gets to see it.
Along the way, under the bridge, I met local kids from the neighborhoods fishing in the river, smoking weed, and looking like they don’t really go to school. I seem to have a way of connecting with them, and the camera helps too. After a few exchanges in my broken Spanish, I took some pictures and promised to send them to them.
Seville actually has a proper port. The river is wide and deep enough for ships to dock and unload goods. In the past, they could even reach Córdoba. Today, most trade is conducted through the port in Cádiz.
We continued walking through the charming streets of Triana. The neighborhood has a beautiful church and a lovely, pleasant pedestrian street.
I sat down next to an elderly man who was sitting in the pedestrian street, watching the passersby. This man makes me wonder how the years have passed for him until our paths crossed, what he has experienced in his life, and what occupies his thoughts…
Triana Market Seville
We arrived at the Triana Market, located right at the entrance to the neighborhood by the bridge. The market is covered, clean, and aesthetic, offering fruits and vegetables, jamón, meat, fish, seafood, restaurants, and cafés. Simple, charming, and not overcrowded.
I find this market better than the one at Setas de Sevilla (the Mushrooms of Seville). In general, every neighborhood in Spanish cities has its own local market. Some are beautiful and well-maintained, while others are simpler and less touristy.
We sat at the market for a beer and ate olive skewers with various toppings like cheese or quail eggs.
Guadalquivir River, Seville
Walking along the eastern bank of the river after crossing the del Cachorro bridge, you can see beautiful graffiti and paintings (there are plenty on the walls supporting the riverbank). There is also an option to rent kayaks down there under the bridge... well, not like the ones in the picture; those are for professional groups training here on the river.
You can also run along the river—there’s a 4.5 km route that starts from the Puente del Cachorro area and continues north along the river on the eastern bank.
Plaza de Toros, Seville
After walking along the river, we arrived at the bullfighting arena at Plaza de Toros. Entry to the arena and the adjacent museum costs a fee. Bullfights still take place here, even though there are quite a few other cities in Spain where they are no longer legal.
In the afternoon, we set out for the Pride parade events, and on the way, we saw a lot of people dressed in formal attire and didn’t understand what the occasion was. It turns out that everyone was going to a wedding—probably the same wedding. The outfits were really formal: suits and ties, and evening dresses.
Because of the heat, it sometimes felt like people were heading to an event in some southern U.S. city from many years ago, like in the movies...
Seville Pride Festival
Back to the parade, there was a convoy of trucks, at least ten, and thousands of revelers in the streets, groups of drummers, and sound and amplification systems. It was very colorful, impressive, exciting, and powerful.
It seems that the friends in the community wait for this day and this event to express all the emotions and extravagance stored within them. They wait for this day when they have the legitimacy to show and feel, and to externalize their true selves.
A convoy of joyful trucks, but it felt like the people were trapped in some kind of moving cages, essentially performing in a circus show for the crowd on the street. The ride in the trucks creates a physical separation, which amplifies the feeling of “you are over there, and we are here.” I don’t know, just a feeling that passed through me. I know that the carnival in Brazil takes place in some cities on trucks, but somehow that didn’t change the feeling I had.
Museum of Fine Arts in Seville
After a morning coffee, we headed toward the Museum of Fine Arts in Seville. Every Sunday, there is an exhibition of local artists in the museum's courtyard from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM. There are lovely works there at very reasonable prices.
By chance, we met an artist there and bought a painting from him. It turns out he is originally from Argentina who also volunteered in Kibbutz Ga'aton in Israel.
The museum is housed in a lovely building and features paintings from the 15th century to the early 20th century by Spanish artists, with an entrance fee of just one and a half euros.
Flamenco show in Triana
We were curious to watch a flamenco show, so we went to one in the Triana neighborhood at the Teatro Flamenco Triana on Pureza Street 76. It was impressive and a bit awkward because it seems like these shows are for tourists (the hall had a group of tourists and us), and I have no way to judge the quality of the performance... There are countless flamenco clubs in the city, and you need to choose one and go.
There was a guitarist, a singer, a dancer, and a male dancer who performed separately and also a bit together. The origins of flamenco are debated; some say it’s from the Gypsies, while others say it’s from Andalusia. The truth is that it probably has influences from all of them combined. Flamenco has evolved and solidified over the past two hundred years into what we see today on stage.
Alcázar Palace (Reales Alcázares de Sevilla)
Another day began with a walk to the Alcázar Palace (Reales Alcázares de Sevilla), an amazing palace with beautiful gardens, somewhat resembling the Alhambra in Granada but with its own uniqueness. The official site for ticket reservations is here.
The palace began construction by the Muslim conquerors (the Moors) in the 8th century, was expanded several times, and had additional wings and buildings added after the conquest of Seville by the Spanish in the 13th century. To this day, it still contains residences for the Spanish royal family.
Maybe this is how the palace visitors looked during the days when it was ruled by the Muslim conquerors here (except for the sunglasses, sneakers, and cell phones).
Here are the Baths of Lady María, with a beautiful reflection of the arched structure in the pool's water.
The palace was used as a location for the "Water Gardens of Dorne" in the series Game of Thrones... just felt like giving it a shoutout.
Seville Historic City Tour
While continuing to wander around the city, we passed by a perfume shop that spread a refreshing scent outside, like the cool breeze from air conditioners bursting onto the street from large chain stores.
I entered an old stationery shop called Papelería Ferrer on Sierpes Street 5. The shop has been operating since 1856. It's a charming store, exactly the kind I love—specialized, with tradition and depth, unlike the chain stores. There are quite a few shops like this in the city; you just need to keep your eyes open and find them.
It's such a joy to see that stores like these still exist in a world dominated by international companies and chains that are far too similar to one another.
There are also street flamenco performances in the city, for example, at Híspalis Fountain Square. We happened to pass by and saw a dancer and a guitarist just as they were finishing their performance.
More Seville Historic City Highlights
Jardines del Prado de San Sebastián - Geometric gardens near Plaza de España, once home to Seville's Feria de Abril fairgrounds and a historic plague cemetery sevilla
La Giralda - Iconic bell tower of Seville Cathedral, originally a 12th-century Almohad minaret with ramp access and panoramic city views travelchoreography
Archivo de Indias – a historic archive tied to Spain’s colonial history.
Plaza del Triunfo – a beautiful square surrounded by major monuments.
Barrio Santa Cruz - Seville's former Jewish quarter features narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and charming patios.
Casa de Pilatos - A 16th-century Andalusian palace blending Mudéjar, Gothic, and Renaissance styles with lush gardens.
Plaza de la Encarnación - A spacious, tree-lined square in the historic city with cafés, markets, and panoramic city views.
Recommended Unique Thermal Baths in Seville Historic City
AIRE Ancient Baths Sevilla - Housed in a restored 16th-century Mudéjar palace in Santa Cruz with Roman-Arab thermal pools and candlelit. (Website)
Cervecería Giralda Hammam - Recently rediscovered 12th-century Arab baths beneath a 1920s tavern, offering authentic historical immersion. Website: Search "Cervecería Giralda Hammam Seville" (no dedicated site see - devourtours)
Plaza de España and María Luisa Park, Seville
I visited Plaza de España once during a morning run and again with Dorit on one of the days. The square is very large and impressive, and it is one of the most prominent
landmarks of the city.
However, it seems somewhat disconnected from the natural layout of the city, and the reason is that the square was built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, along with other buildings in María Luisa Park.
The park itself is lovely, with a large area of plants and trees, making it perfect for a picnic.
Street Life in Seville
In the afternoon at 5:00 PM, I head out in the intense heat towards Triana to find something to photograph. As I'm walking, I spot children in the distance diving into the river. I start running towards them, recognizing the opportunity... I arrive, out of breath and sweating.
I photographed them jumping off the bridge and took their email and Instagram, and sent them the pictures. It was insanely hot, close to 40 degrees here. The kids are immigrant children, some from Morocco, making the best of what they have.
The Tower of Gold (Torre del Oro)
The Tower of Gold (Torre del Oro) stands on the eastern side of the river.
A historic 13th-century tower, built by the Moors as part of the city's defensive system along the Guadalquivir River.
Over the years, the tower served as a warehouse for precious goods, a lighthouse, and today it houses a small maritime museum showcasing the naval history of Seville.
The tower's name comes from the golden shine that reflected off it onto the river—most likely due to a special coating or the gold brought to the city from the New World.
Seville Tower
We noticed the tallest building in Seville (Sevilla Tower) from a distance and decided to go up and see the city from above. We went up to the observation deck on the 37th floor (€8), where we sat at the bar — and the view is truly stunning.
Alfalfa neighborhood
In the evening, we go out for a drink at Alfalfa Bar, which is, of course, located in the Alfalfa neighborhood, full of bars and good tapas bars for snacking, usually late at night.
I can't say this bar is particularly exceptional, but its name is catchy, right?
Later in the evening, we ate at La Bodega on Alfalfa Street 4.
My favorite dishes there were the zucchini pie (Carolina de calabacín) and the potato and shrimp salad (Ensaladilla casera con gambas), which are traditional tapas dishes from the area.
There are many other options for meat and seafood as well.
Breakfast at La Mala Brunch on Rivero Street. Contemporary breakfasts, a bit on the excessive side but tasty, and the coffee isn't bad either (some places in the city serve boiling hot coffee, so be careful).
Here in the picture is Dorit and her friends at the café for breakfast after they surprised her with a quick visit to Seville just for her (well... maybe a little for themselves too).
Mushrooms of Seville (Setas de Sevilla)
Well, it's impossible not to mention the "Mushrooms of Seville" (Setas de Sevilla) located in Plaza de la Encarnación. We booked tickets in advance, and it's recommended to visit around sunset and also watch the short film about the city.
The structure is very impressive, made up of six "mushrooms" constructed from wood coated with a sealing material.
There's an indoor market, an open-air market, and at the top, a beautiful observation walkway overlooking the city. Take a look:
Feria Flea Market & Food Market
I read somewhere about the flea market in the Feria neighborhood (El Jueves rastro) that operates every Thursday, so I went there. The market is charming, with the usual merchandise you find at such markets... If you want to buy something, be sure to bring cash. The market stretches along 200 meters of stalls filled with a variety of objects, pictures, and more...
In the neighborhood, there’s also a small covered market—the Feria Market (fruits, vegetables, fish, and, of course, ham...). The market also hosts some small tapas bars and cafes.
Alameda de Hércules
As I continued my wandering, I discovered an entire street of bars and restaurants that was closed in the morning, so I promised myself we would return here in the evening.
In the evening, as promised, we headed to Alameda de Hércules and sat at the espresso bar El Viajero Sedentario on Alameda de Hércules Street, 77.
The entire avenue is filled with pubs, restaurants, and cafés, and it seems to be one of the favorite hangout spots for young people in Seville.
In Feria and in Alameda, there are also some special shops, and the area is friendly to members of the LGBTQ+ community.
There’s a second-hand clothing store called Ropero Sevilla—I haven't been, but opinions are divided regarding the quality of service and the friendliness of the owners...
Here’s another entrance to one of the houses in the Alameda neighborhood; many of the buildings are designed in a charming patio (internal courtyard) style with potted plants and even water fountains—this is true for all cities in Andalusia.
Updates and pictures from our time in March 2025
San Gil neighborhood
We returned to Seville for a week — not only to brush up on our Spanish at the charming Bla Bla language school, but also to soak up the atmosphere of this warm, welcoming city that we’ve truly come to love.
This time, we stayed in the San Gil neighborhood, a quiet residential area located here. It’s a more local and less touristy alternative to the busy city center — perfect for getting a more authentic feel of everyday life in Seville.
There are plenty of local and authentic bars and tapas places here — and I must say, they’re quite affordable too.
We had a fair amount of rain during the week we stayed here, which added a touch of drama to the photos… and a fair bit of dampness to our clothes.I ended up taking quite a few shots during the week — and I’ll be sharing some of the results with you in just a moment.
Top Places to Visit in Seville, Spain
Our apartment: Link from Airbnb here (the apartment is quiet, in a new building, suitable for two)
Seville Cathedral (Catedral de Sevilla)
The Tower of Gold (Torre del Oro)
Royal Alcázar of Seville (Palacio Real de Sevilla)
Plaza de España
"Mushrooms of Seville" (Setas de Sevilla)
María Luisa Park (Parque de María Luisa)
Bullfighting Stadium (Plaza de Toros)
Triana neighborhood (Triana)
Alameda de Hércules neighborhood (entertainment neighborhood)
Flamenco show in Triana (Teatro Flamenco Triana)
Triana Bridge (Puente de Isabel II)
Triana market (Mercado de Triana)
Feria neighborhood (Feria) & Food market
Flea market in Feria ("Mercadillo histórico 'El Jueves'")
Alfalfa neighborhood (restaurants and bars)
The river of Seville - Guadalquivir (Guadalquivir)
Seville Tower
Running path along the river.
Street art along the eastern riverbank.
The historic city (the old town)
Seville Museum of Fine Arts (Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla)
San Gil neighborhood — our home for a week in March 2025
Cafés and food in Seville, Spain
In the morning, before we left the city, we took one last tour to check out some cafés. The first one is East Crema Coffee on Santa Maria Street 1, which also has branches in Madrid. The coffee is excellent (a bit pricey—cappuccino for €3.30), but there’s no Wi-Fi, and the seating feels like it says, "Okay, drink up and go."
Café Muy, located [here] — really small, but the coffee is tasty, cheap, and generously sized.
Café Late, located [here] — they also have good cakes and toast.
The second café is called Plácido y Grato on Monsalves Street; it looks great (cappuccino for €2.70) and has Wi-Fi.
We found another excellent café with lovely owners on Amor de Dios Street 1 called Hispalís Café, where we had espresso (cheap).
Another great coffee place is Virgen Café on Regina Street 1, which is primarily takeaway, with two small tables outside.
We enjoyed tasty breakfasts at La Mala Brunch on Rivero Street.
For traditional tapas, a good spot is La Bodega on Alfalfa Street 4.
There’s a cute bar (there are many good ones) called Alfalfa Bar on Candilejo Street 1.
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